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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.